Double wine Torrens

This past weekend was a long weekend and I entered peak flow and undertook a cutting-out-and-sewing extravaganza!

I cut out 2 pairs of Glebe Pants (not pictured) and 3 Torrens Box Tops. I’ve had these 2 wine coloured fabrics in my stash waiting to become a Torrens for a while now, and I figured that by making them at the same time I could double up on my topstitching thread!

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Above is blackcurrant linen from TFS and below is boysenberry double gauze from Blackbird Fabrics. Both of the tops are the Torrens with the M&B Patreon Bonus gathered sleeve, which I settled on when I realised I had enough fabric for long-sleeves. The bonus sleeves have generous gathers and are slightly longer to give a blouson over the cuff. I also appreciate that the elastic means I can comfortably shove my sleeves up my arms.

Wine Torrens-11

I made a Size F for both tops even though my bust measurement would put me in a Size E (and my narrow shoulders even lower). For the facing on the double-gauze top I used a different fabric and was very very gentle during construction to ensure I didn’t stretch out the neckline before I managed to attach the facing (double gauze is a jerk which I’ve learnt the hard way).

Wine Torrens-02

I’m hoping the shade will be a hit in my wardrobe (not without evidence since my wine Hyde T-shirts have been in constant rotation since sewing)! I also intend to wash this gauze up and have it extra crinkly to make the most of its lovely texture!

Chalk and Notch Max

It’s not very often that I see a pattern for the first time and sew up a pattern that same day.. Mostly because the vast majority of my makes are Muna and Broad, and I see those before I get to sew them (and I don’t have to buy the patterns).

I spotted this pink muscle tee on Romy and headed directly to the Chalk and Notch website. I downloaded it, printed it on my A0 printer, made some quick pattern modifications and then whipped it up! I’d stashed away this hefty printed cotton from a Facebook Fabric Group (only sells in NZ, sorry), so I was basically ready to go!

Chalk and Notch Max front and back
Sometimes you get fancy camera photos and today you’re getting the front camera of my phone balanced on a clothes horse in my bathroom.

My measurements: I gave a 43″ upper bust and 49″ bust and my largest hip measurement is 58″ today.

Size made: My upper bust and full bust measurement put me between a Size 18 and Size 20 with the C/D cup but because I have quite narrow shoulders I went with the Size 18 as my base size. I graded out to a size 30 in the hips, and I also did the adjustment you’d use to remove a dart (there is no dart) and used that to swing the side seam of the front piece out to give myself even more width through the waist/hip. There was no finished measurement given for the waist or hip in the instructions (just a note that there was 12″ of ease through the waist), so I measured the pattern pieces instead.

Fabric Usage: I only had 1m of fabric and the instructions said I’d need 1.4 for my bust size. I didn’t fold the fabric in half, but put 2 folds in that would give me just enough fabric to squeeze in my front and back pieces across the width. The I did serious Tetris to also get the facings from the same fabric. I ended up cropping it quite a bit (I cut out the longer version) to a spot where I was happy with it to intersect with my Glebe Pants.

Chalk and Notch Max

Is this a win? The front neckline doesn’t sit flush, the back neckline doesn’t curve around my rounded upper back and I’ve got quite a bit of gaping at the back armhole. Will I still wear this? Maybe. I liked the simplicity of the facings (I didn’t interface them because I’m the worst but also because my fabric had quite a bit of body) and this was such a quick sew. If I made this again I might add some width/swing into the back to give myself a touch more room, but I’m not sure how to deal with the armhole gaping!

Wine Hyde twins

The Hyde T-Shirt extravaganza continues in my sewing room (which is my loungeroom). Sometimes when we release a pattern it takes a while for me to want to make it again because I’ve made so many already and I’m feeling a bit ‘over it’.

Hyde Shirt long sleeve-11

Not so with the Hyde.. So much not so that I actually just went ahead and made a long-sleeve version with exactly the same fabric I’d used to make a short sleeve version! It’s not clear from the pics, but these are exactly the same fabric (wine cotton spandex from For Fabrics Sake, now sold out (probably because I kept going back to order more))!

Burgundy Hyde Boxy Tee-16

Basically, I made the short-sleeve version and loved it. I immediately wanted to make it an everyday wear, and my dog walking top, so I took some quick photos and transitioned it into my ‘okay to stain it with food’ wardrobe (a wardrobe that my pink linen Glebe Pants and these corduroy Glebe haven’t made it to just yet). No regrets at all because the short-sleeve version has been perfect for warm-weather dog walking and heading to the shops but still feeling great.

Hyde Shirt long sleeve-10

While I was finishing up the long-sleeve version I went back and added a greyhound label on to the sleeve of the short-sleeve version. I’ve been thinking a lot about all the places you can put labels (I even made a Pinterest board all about it), and I might also retroactively add some label goodies to the sleeve of this mauve Hyde too)!

Striped merino Hyde

Yesterday I finished this merino Hyde T-Shirt and this morning it was just 5 degrees Celsius. Is my timing impeccable or what?

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This great striped merino is from Nick’s Fabrics in Auckland and comes in a variety of colourways. The selvedge edge was quite wavy and almost stretched out near the edges. It wasn’t a huge issue because I didn’t need to cut right to the edge, but I’d say to keep that in mind if you need the entire width to be usable.

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The Hyde has quickly become my go-to for everyday wear. If you’re in Christchurch, you might spot me in your local park with a greyhound wearing this or one of my other versions (or one of my many toiles). Because it’s not super-fitted and thanks to the high neckline, it’s very Banksia Bralette friendly. I like that it doesn’t feel fussy, but still feels much more ‘put-together’ than something I could buy from a store does.

Hyde Shirt long sleeve-53

I’ve actually been on a little Hyde T-Shirt binge recently. There was a gap in my wardrobe for long-sleeve t-shirts which don’t have turtlenecks. Most of the long-sleeve Tarlee T-shirts and hacks of the Tarlee that I’ve made have turtlenecks on them, which is sometimes overkill when you just need a sleeves worth of extra warmth. Expect more pictures soon!

Drapey Hyde T-Shirt

The new Hyde T-Shirt from M&B comes with a View B which has a crossover back. It’s accessibility-minded but also just looks good.

After Leila whipped hers up in black, I decided that this rich chocolatey bamboo would make a perfect version for me! I love how the back detail and the bamboo can skew a bit ‘elevated’ but it’s still Ridiculously Comfortable!

Hyde ShirtView B-24

Fabric: This bamboo knit came as part of my order from Maai Designs in Australia. This fabric is delightfully hefty and the colour is lovely and rich. The drapey, slipperyness of the bamboo is perfect for this view since fabric with a rougher texture could get stuck on itself on the envelope back!

Hyde ShirtView B-18

Hears a little sneaky pic which shows how the wrapover back of the View B comes together. I’ve given it a test wear in a stiff breeze, and haven’t flashed anyone yet. The line drawing on the pattern page gives a better idea of how it might sit in a less heavy and super-drapey fabric.

Hyde ShirtView B-28

I’ve been smuggling fabric in this colour into my stash since about October last year, but I’m only just getting around to sewing with any of them. This early version of the Hyde T-Shirt was a bit of a revelation because it wasn’t until I was looking back through my selfies that I realised that the colour was really making my hair sing! It’s such a good colour to pair with the existing pants in my wardrobe, so I imagine you’ll be seeing more of this shade in the future.

Striped Hyde T-Shirt

The latest pattern from Leila and I through Muna and Broad is now here. The Hyde T-Shirt has a dropped shoulder and a couple of views, and is 15% off during launch week, no code necessary.

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I wanted a boxy t-shirt and Leila delivered! I’ve been wearing my toiles a lot while heading out to walk the dog, but I also feel like these are dressy enough that I’d still wear them out-and-about, without feeling like I’d given up on dressing up.

Hyde Shirt-16

Fabric: This striped knit came from Maai Designs in Australia. It’s a lovely knit, which I snagged as soon as I saw it back in November! Because I ordered this well before the pattern was drafted I’ve got leftover fabric, so you might be seeing a matching singlet in my future (guess I’d better talk to Leila about that)!

Hyde Shirt-17

Hilariously, I did a much better job of matching the stripes on the side that I DIDN’T photograph! Not sure how I did it, but one is much better than the other.

I’ve already made a few of these, and there’s some more fabric (and quite a few stripes) in my stash just waiting to become the various views and sleeve-lengths of this!

Tarawi in the wild!

The new Tarawi Shirt has happily joined my wardrobe! This is the 23rd pattern that Leila and I have released over the last two years and at the time of posting, there’s about 48-hours left to get 15% off (no discount code needed).

Here’s a little bit of wardrobe and colour-scheme exploration about fitting these new Tarawi Shirts into my wardrobe!

Tarawi Shoalhaven Glebe
Belmore and Tarawi

Above left, I’m wearing my navy Shoalhaven Shacket with a brushed cotton twill Tarawi Shirt, natural linen Glebe Pants and my McLean & Co scarf. Above right, I’m wearing my pink boiled wool Belmore Jacket, purple cow print Tarawi, and hot pink Glebe Pants.

I’ve posted before about my explorations trying to narrow down a colour scheme for my wardrobe, or ‘trying to make sure every project is a winner’. With still no solid answers (but ever more questions), these 2 shirts raised a lot of questions for me.

The two Tarawi Shirts that I’ve shared here were fabrics I had decided wouldn’t necessarily be for me, or not for me to wear out in public! The purple ‘cow spot’ fabric I had put aside to sell at a stash sale (but nobody bought it from me) and I got the blue plaid thinking I might make a shirt for someone else, or pyjamas for myself… Basically, these were toiles that I think have redeemed themselves (and given me food for thought) because I wasn’t sure they’d be winners colour-wise for me!

Brighton cow print-24
Above, I’m wearing my purple cow print Tarawi with my quilted Belmore Jacket, corduroy Glebe Pants, my Breve Bag, and McLean & Co scarf

Because I love all fabrics and really bright colours (would you believe that I’m a bit obsessed with bright Kaffe Fassett prints?), it can be difficult for me to narrow down things that I’m quite drawn to, but don’t necessarily want to wear. The purple ‘cow print’ fabric arrived in the post, and I thought ‘why did you buy that?’. I was pretty certain that I’d fallen prey to that classic ‘love it but don’t want to wear it’ situation.

The pale lilac shade and the print both felt very ‘young’. Like something a Gen X would wear with mint mules. Fine for them, but not something for me necessarily.

Something obviously made me hold on to the fabric, and I’m quite taken by the final product! I like how there’s a pattern, but it’s still quite low-contrast, and how the purple shade will work with many of the other colours in my wardrobe.

Tarawi and Shoalhaven
A navy Shoalhaven Shacket with a Tarawi Shirt, Glebe Pants and McLean & Co scarf.

Navy has been a colour that I’ve been avoiding lately. Not because I don’t like it, and not because it doesn’t suit me, but because I found that it was bringing a lot of contrast to my outfits- contrast that I didn’t feel good in (read more musings from me on low-contrast combos). This discovery came after I finished this Shoalhaven (a project I was really pleased with), and then found I really wasn’t reaching for because it was too high-contrast and wasn’t bringing me joy.

The cozy navy brushed cotton twill I used for this Tarawi was fabric that I’d decided to use as a toile- I didn’t expect to finish it into a wearable garment. The fabric was so snuggly and nice, that I did end up finishing it and it ended up being a great match for the Shoalhaven. Together, they make a pairing that I’m comfortable in.

I’ve paired the shirt and shacket combo with these rust Woden shoes that I was having a hard time pairing until pointed out that if I had leather shoes this shade I’d consider them a neutral. I imagine with some kind of denim pants, this would be the ultimate combo to make navy feel not-so-high-contrast!

Tarawi and Belmore
Belmore Jacket, Tarawi Shirt, and Glebe Pants.

So both of these shirts were from fabric which I had decided ‘probably weren’t for me’. I thought they’d struggle to fit into my current wardrobe, and that I wouldn’t necessarily get much joy from wearing them, or a lot of use from them. I’ve been absolutely proven wrong, and the colours have raised quite a few questions (like, do I need some warm blue linen pants?)!

A+R Linen Tarawi

I’ve been on a Tarawi Shirt-making tear over the last wee while, which I suppose is to be expected when you’re preparing a shirt pattern for release into the world!

My latest version uses the 3″/8cm check linen from A+R Fabrics in Australia. I was planning a colour-blocked version because I didn’t think I had enough fabric for a full shirt, but as I was cutting I discovered that I could squeeze the full shirt out, so long as I wasn’t too fussy about pattern placement.

A and R Tarawi Shirt-47
I’m wearing a Tarawi Shirt over a Tarlee T-Shirt and Glebe Pants (the mask is the free Japanese Sewing Book 3D Mask)

This hot-off-the-machine Muna and Broad Tarawi Shirt uses the narrow-neck option which we added in for folks with proportionally small necks. My two other shirts that I’ve shared (see the purple one and the other blue one) both use the regular neckline.

With the addition of the narrow neck option, the Tarawi Shirt gives regular and narrow biceps, 4 cup-sizes and regular and narrow width necks. The hope is that this will give folks a great starting point! The size chart spans 36″-66″ (91-168cm) Bust and 41.5″-71.5″ (105-182cm) Hip, and Leila will grade the pattern up (at no extra size) if the size chart is too small to include you.

A and R Tarawi Shirt-51

My measurements: Upper bust 43″, full bust 48″, largest measurement 56/57″, lower hip 55″. I have quite narrow shoulders, and the 5″ difference in measurements between my upper and full bust is quite misleading because that’s not my actual cup size.

Size details: I made a Size D, based on my upper bust measurements, and used the 2+ front and the narrow neck. I graded out to a little past the Size E hip to accommodate for my largest measurement and I also added 1″ to the centre of the lower-back (the piece is cut on the fold so this gave me 2″ extra through the back).

A and R Tarawi Shirt-37

Future versions: Inspired by the lengthened versions that you can see in the hashtag #TarawiShirt, I’m thinking about a cosy mid-thigh length version from a warm fabric.

Check Tarawi

This week, the Tarawi Shirt is 15% off as part of our pre-order.

This is another View A of the new Tarawi Shirt pattern, and one that I had whipped up as a toile from this brushed cotton which I got on sale. It was so snuggly that I had to turn this toile into a finished shirt.

Check Tarawi front

My measurements: Upper bust 43″, full bust 48″, largest measurement 56″, lower hip 55″. You can read more about my size choice for the Tarawi Shirt here.

Size details: I made a Size D, based on my upper bust measurements, and used the 2+ front. I graded out to a little past the Size E hip to accommodate for my largest measurement. The narrow neck option didn’t exist when I made this, but I’d choose that option for my narrow neck next time.

Fabric and notions: I got this Brushed Gingham Twill Cotton on sale from The Fabric Store for $12 per metre (no longer on sale). I actually bought 7 metres while it was on sale- and because I got it for such a steal, I decided to use it for a toile (obviously, I didn’t need 7metres for this toile). I used corozo buttons from Hawes and Freer and while I did put all the buttons (and buttonholes) that the pattern called for, I omitted the bottom button on my subsequent version (this purple one).

Check Tarawi back

Since this was a toile, which I really didn’t intend to finish, I didn’t put a lot of thought into pattern placement of the check. My big regret is not paying more attention to how the check would fall over the back pleat (fortunately, I don’t have to look at it). Otherwise, I did a half-assed job of matching the plaid by ensuring that I cut my pattern pieces out in the same spot on the fabric.

My recipe for check or plaid Tarawi Shirt:

Cut 2 cuffs on bias (interface these ones),
Cut 2 pockets on bias,
Cut 1 collar band on bias (interface this one),
Cut 1 yoke on bias,
Cut placket on bias

Because of the bust-dart, matching the side-seams is always going to be futile. The button band is created by notching the front of the shirt, which means that a bias-cut button band doesn’t work here.

Optional extra, cut 2 of cuff, 1 collar and 1 collar band, 1 yoke from a lining fabric. You won’t interface any of these, and they’ll end up under the collar, inside the collar and inside the cuffs and on the inside of the yoke.

Check Tarawi side

And now, I’m on the lookout for snuggly brushed fabric (my ultimate would be a red and pink check)! I’m thinking this will be my go-to weekend shirt, and it’s a great match for my Shoalhaven Shacket!

Tarawi Shirt

The Tarawi Shirt is the latest pattern release from me and Leila under the Muna and Broad banner!

The Tarawi Shirt comes with 2+, 4+, and 6+ cup sizes (difference in inches between upper and full bust) and a no bust option (for folks with no breast tissue, or who bind). The size chart spans 36″-66″ (91-168cm) Bust and 41.5″-71.5″ (105-182cm) Hip. There’s also a regular and narrow sleeve option and after I made this shirt we also added a narrow neck option too.

Purple spotted Tarawi Shirt front

Fit intentions: This relaxed shirt has a set-in shoulder (a Muna and Broad first), which is designed to sit about 1/2″ past the shoulder bones, so that it sits nicely on fat arms. The shirt has a 2-piece collar and excellent gusseted pockets, but can also be made with a band collar and the pockets omitted.

My measurements: Upper bust 43″, full bust 48″, largest measurement 56/57″, lower hip 55″. I have quite narrow shoulders, and the 5″ difference in measurements between my upper and full bust is quite misleading because that’s not my actual cup size. I also mostly wear soft bralettes, which means my bust apex is quite low and I don’t get any artificial shape or lift.

Purple spotted Tarawi Shirt back

Size details: I made a Size D, based on my upper bust measurements, and used the 2+ front. I graded out to a little past the Size E hip to accommodate for my largest measurement. I think next time, I’ll grade a little bit further out around the waist and the hips to give myself some extra room. Because of my IBS-related bloating, I often do have quite a large measurement directly above my navel.

I don’t measure in to the 2+ bust front, but based on experimentation I’ve found this cup size best suited the size and projection of my actual breast tissue. I used the regular sleeve (as opposed to the narrow sleeve), and although I didn’t on this shirt

Purple spotted Tarawi Shirt side

Fabric details: I used this crisp cotton shirting which has a similar feel to a lawn. I had 2.8m of this 150cm wide fabric and cut on the open. I have a decent piece of fabric left, but probably not enough for a garment for my body. For this shirt, I wasn’t fussy about pattern placement, which makes cutting out and being fabric thrifty quite easy.

Notions: I used river shell buttons from Hawes and Freer in Auckland, and used 1 less on the front than the pattern recommends. I didn’t have a great thread match, so ended up using a soft pink which blended fine.

I had this fabric bundled up, measured and priced to sell at a fabric stash sale a few months ago. Fortunately, nobody took a shine to it, and when I was packing up my fabric which didn’t sell, I snuck this one back onto my stash shelves. I hope this low-contrast patterned shirt will get lots of wear with my pink and purple wardrobe pieces.

You can get 15% off Tarawi Shirt this week as it’s currently on pre-sale!