Cargo Glebe & Waikerie

@Ithacamaven‘s Top, Down, Centre, Out seems to be the topic of conversation that’s attached to every self-sewn pair of pants on the internet!

Recently we got a question about TDCO on the M&B Patreon forum, so I did some additional research and dove in with my Glebe Pants pattern to make some new pants for my travel capsule to take with me to Wellington. The pink pants I shared recently were made from the pattern pieces after doing this TDCO fitting.

Cargo Glebe View A Waikerie-23

Size and fit details: Using Ruth’s recommendation for choosing sizes, basing the outer seam on your waist size and the inseam and crotch seams on your hip size. This is the TDCO approach to blending or grading between sizes, rather than blending sizes at the outer seam which changes the shape of the pants.

I picked a Size F at the outer seams and a Size M through the inseams and crotch seams. Size F is the size I’ve made my other Glebe Pants and I basically just chose Size M for the other parts because it had the most crotch extension. I did not add any width to the pattern pieces or height above the waist for the purpose of fitting because I was VERY confident that the pants would have too much rise and would not need any extra width added.

The fitting process

I omitted the slash pockets and cut out one half of the pattern- one front leg and one back leg, which I basted together. I sewed some elastic into a loop and popped it where I’d want my waistband to sit. Because there was no issue with the pants being too small anywhere, it simplified the fitting process a lot.

Cargo Glebe View A Waikerie-22

I concentrated on getting the front and back seams to sit in my centre, tucking them into the elastic, pulling them up until the crotch was hitting at the right spot (with enough ease). Then I basically arranged the rest of the fabric into the elastic waistband. I knew I was only going to have elastic in the back, so I concentrated on getting the sideseam to hit in the correct spot, and made myself a deep pleat at the front. I tugged at the top of the side seam of the pants, pulling it higher into the elastic waistband until wrinkles through the legs disappeared. And I ended up deciding that I needed to remove some fabric from the centre back.

Is this the exact order of things I was supposed to do? I’m not sure, but it felt right.

I transferred where the pants were interacting with the waistband over onto my paper pattern and cut out the other side of the pants and then I used my shears to lop off the fabric I had deemed unnecessary at the top of my first side of the pants (leaving a seam allowance of 1/2″). Then I did a check with both legs attached to each other still with the elastic loop as a waistband, tweaking and pinching fabric.

Final changes

I ended up adding a 4″ pleat to the front and removing an amount from the centre back of the pattern. I effectively ended up removing 2″ from the rise all around the pattern pieces, with slightly more through the centre back as I was trying to remove some excess fabric pooling in the small of my back.

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In truth, I haven’t exactly maintained the design intent of the Glebe Pants because I’ve seriously widened the legs of the pants and put a very deep pleat in which is twice as big as the original View B pleat.

I also could not be bothered to go back and add the slash pockets back in, so I attached this gusseted pocket which I had recently drafted for a wrap skirt (it’s now the November Patreon Bonus). The pocket hits at exactly the right spot for my hand and is surprisingly capacious.

High-rent pink Glebe

For my recent weekend trip to Wellington for Camp Boom (a camp for fatties) I took the opportunity to sew myself up a little travel capsule of new makes!

I love a deadline and also an excuse to kick myself into making things I’d been planning for ages, but hadn’t necessarily got around to!

Knit skirt

Pattern number 30 from Leila and me is here: The Whitlam Skirt from Muna and Broad. I didn’t think it could be done but Leila has drafted a knit tube skirt that doesn’t want to crawl up under my belly overhang. Pure magic.

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Squiggle City

I’ve been sewing up a little storm recently as we prepare to release Muna and Broad‘s 30th pattern (not pictured here) and as I put together a small travel capsule for an upcoming weekend in Wellington for Camp Boom (capsule also not pictured here).

A gaggle of Atrax

I’ve sewn up a little collection of funnelneck knit Atrax Tops to pair with the soon-to-be-released pattern, and I loved this one so much that I wanted to share it early with you!

I love an abstract squiggle, and I bought this squiggled viscose knit fabric even though I wasn’t sure it would necessarily be a wardrobe win for me. It’s surprisingly hefty and was nice to sew with. I’m happier about it than I look in the photos.

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Size details: I made a Size F Atrax and I’m wearing my Size F corduroy Glebe Pants (View B). My current measurements are 50″ bust 48″ waist 59″ hip.

I love how the armhole of the Atrax wraps around my body. I’ve tried some other short-sleeved knit tops where I’ve had so much armhole gaping- I think the other patterns just didn’t accommodate my very typical rounded back. I also love how the centre-back seam wraps the back of the funnel around my neck hump. I’ve definitely had other patterns and even RTW clothes where the neckline sits out from the hump or the neck finishes quite low on my neck- both outcomes lead to a chilly breeze down my neck and I hate it. This makes the fit wins of the Atrax feel pretty special.

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I love this pattern. It’s so simple but I feel so great in it. It’s exactly the kind of thing I would have seen on Eileen Fisher and lusted after before I could sew. Worn-untucked, it flows over my hip and has a delightfully hefty bottom hem. Here I’ve tucked the bottom hem into the underwire of my bra and let the top cascade from there. The hem also tucks nicely into a bralette or, into the top of the pants for a classic half-tuck.

You’ll be seeing me in Atrax Tops of various colours and patterns a lot this summer!

M&B Outers

Muna and Broad is celebrating our 3rd birthday and we’ve shared 5 days of prompts for folks to share their M&B makes on Instagram! After pants day, we celebrate outer layers day!

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Our first outerwear pattern was the Mallee Jacket, which was designed with boiled wool in mind. I picked this green because I thought it was a sensible and versatile fabric.

I still really want a pink Mallee.

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Our next pattern was the quilted Grainger Coat. Designed for quilting your own coat, or pre-quilted fabrics, I took the easy route and used pre-quilted denim for my Grainger.

I have almost finished piecing together a very brightly coloured striped quilt top that I want to have quilted and then I’ll cut myself a Grainger from it!

Side Shoalhaven

Our next release was the Shoalhaven Shacket, which we released when the sewing world hadn’t heard of a shacket yet!

Here’s a joke about fat folks being ahead of the curve *wink wink*

Belmore Jacket
Merchant and Mills quilted fabric
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The Belmore Jacket, a pattern which I have filled my wardrobe with! This is the pattern that I hoped would be in my size when I got into sewing (but I had to wait until we released it)!

I get the most wear from my pink boiled wool Belmore, followed closely by the denim Belmore with the giant Patreon pockets as it’s perfect for foraging, scavenging and taking to markets.

Lilac Cobden-13

The most recent M&B outerwear is the Cobden Chore Jacket. An excuse for a pocket party, I would love this lilac jacket with my whole heart if my machine didn’t hate top-stitching. Do not look closely.

Future plans?

Wouldn’t you think my collection’s complete? Wouldn’t you think I’m the girl… the girl who has everything? (that she needs in the outerwear department)?

Well, no. I’ve definitely got plans to replace some of these pieces, and also to hack and experiment with them! I’d like a tan coloured Shoalhaven (I’ve got the fabric already), a bright pink Mallee (boiled wool, of course)! I’ve got blue needlecord for a high-contrast Cobden! I’d love to try lengthening the Belmore for a serious slow-fashion look. And maybe a lengthened Mallee too! Stay tuned.

M&B pants

At Muna and Broad we’re celebrating our 3rd birthday and we’ve shared 5 days of prompts for folks to share their M&B makes on Instagram! Up first, pants day!

What better time to delve through the archive for vintage pants (3 years old is vintage now).

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Torrens Box Top 3
Black silk noil Torrens

Above, our first pants pattern, the Glebe Pants! The natural linen ones were my first pair (and the pants that started it all… literally started M&B), then the dark green on the left and the green on the right.

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Nullarbor 6

If you squint at the photo on above with the very colourful top you can see the early Willandra Pants that I made and then we put on the back burner for months (I thought I didn’t like them, but my love grew over the months). After the Glebe we released our side-pocketed Sculthorpe Pants next!

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Next, the Willandra made it out into the world. I made them in a plum tencel and it was love! Pink wool Glebe joined my wardrobe and we released the Birchgrove Pants (the red ones above)

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At some point, the bright pink pants that I made on a whim and which revolutionised my wardrobe and thoughts on colour need to be mentioned.. These pants changed everything.

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And I keep filling my wardrobe with Glebe… It’s fair to say that they’re my favourite pants pattern (and so, by default they’re also my favourite M&B pants pattern)!

Bishop Melba Top

A little while ago I shared this Melba Dress sewing fail on Instagram– a sad outcome for this deep stash linen which I cut into far too haphazardly. With the bold sleeves and the red colour, it felt like something I should be wearing as a church chorister.

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I knew that removing the sleeves and making them less dramatic would probably fix the dress for me, but I really do prefer to wear pants so I decided that I’d just make a dramatic top instead since that will get the most wear.

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This was an early version of the Melba and the neckline isn’t quite the same as the final version, which has a much better fit on my narrow, hollow chest.

I don’t have much of this tomato red shade in my wardrobe, but I do love a pink and red pairing, so I’m hoping this top will work well with my various pink pants and also my natural linen Glebe Pants too!

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In fact, I like this combo so much that I used the photo as my headshot for the announcement that I’ll be one of the speakers (and attendees) at Camp Boom in Wellington this year! I’m very excited to attend ‘a fierce camp for fat babes’ in November, and am already planning a couple of extra pieces for my wardrobe (including some kind of me-made rain covering)!

Red and pink combo

Pinterest can attest to my love of pink and red combos, but my wardrobe couldn’t, until now. Inspired by this post from The Fine Cloth Company which showed their candy apple red and bubblegum pink linens combined into a tiered dress, I went ahead and purchased The Exact Same Fabrics for my own colourblock adventure using the M&B Torrens Box Top and Glebe Pants.

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I thought i might not like the combo for wearing as much as the thought of it made me chuckle (and also brought me pleasure) and I was kind of right. The combo feels rather conspicuous (d’uh Jess) and I’m left with the feeling that maybe I needed even more colourblocking to make this sit right with me (when in doubt, double down).

Fabric consumption: I purchased 1.5metres of each colour, and although I had enough, I ended up having to cut the red of the back as several pieces (through poor planning on my part). As you can see from the improv quilts in the background of the photo, I had lots of small pieces of fabric left.

The back of the pockets are self-linen (since they are visible past the slash pockets) but the front of the pockets are a viscose fabric (this saves fabric but adds some extra slink to my pockets).

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The red fabric is opaque but the pink was letting things shine through (I don’t mind a bra but I draw the line at underwear), so I did a half lining using the method from men’s suit trousers which is to cut your pattern pieces sideways so that the bottom hem sits on the selvedge. This means you can skip hemming your lining, which is extra comfortable and doesn’t let any bumps show through your pants. They’re lined in the same opaque pink fabric I lined the pockets with.

However, for some reason the pants and the lining looked really tight on, there were all these extra drag lines.. basically, it looked really bad. This was my standard size for the Glebe so I think the issue was how my lining pants and the linen pants were interacting (the lining pants were attached through the pocket but not the crotch seam). I experimented with unpicking the centre crotch along the leg seam and this unlocked a lot of the tension, so I added a gusset into both sets of pants. Much better!

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Speaking of doubling down when things aren’t working- When I’d decided that maybe this combo wasn’t working, I went back and ordered more of this fabric, with a plan to make an epic Waikerie Dress to wear as a duster with the outfit. Very much inspired by Garth Brook’s The Chase album cover, my duster would have pockets added onto the front to amp up the colourblock, and maybe I’d finally use that snap press that I bought so I could stop sewing buttonholes! Good things take time though, so I’ll continue procrastinating!