Cargo Glebe & Waikerie

@Ithacamaven‘s Top, Down, Centre, Out seems to be the topic of conversation that’s attached to every self-sewn pair of pants on the internet!

Recently we got a question about TDCO on the M&B Patreon forum, so I did some additional research and dove in with my Glebe Pants pattern to make some new pants for my travel capsule to take with me to Wellington. The pink pants I shared recently were made from the pattern pieces after doing this TDCO fitting.

Cargo Glebe View A Waikerie-23

Size and fit details: Using Ruth’s recommendation for choosing sizes, basing the outer seam on your waist size and the inseam and crotch seams on your hip size. This is the TDCO approach to blending or grading between sizes, rather than blending sizes at the outer seam which changes the shape of the pants.

I picked a Size F at the outer seams and a Size M through the inseams and crotch seams. Size F is the size I’ve made my other Glebe Pants and I basically just chose Size M for the other parts because it had the most crotch extension. I did not add any width to the pattern pieces or height above the waist for the purpose of fitting because I was VERY confident that the pants would have too much rise and would not need any extra width added.

The fitting process

I omitted the slash pockets and cut out one half of the pattern- one front leg and one back leg, which I basted together. I sewed some elastic into a loop and popped it where I’d want my waistband to sit. Because there was no issue with the pants being too small anywhere, it simplified the fitting process a lot.

Cargo Glebe View A Waikerie-22

I concentrated on getting the front and back seams to sit in my centre, tucking them into the elastic, pulling them up until the crotch was hitting at the right spot (with enough ease). Then I basically arranged the rest of the fabric into the elastic waistband. I knew I was only going to have elastic in the back, so I concentrated on getting the sideseam to hit in the correct spot, and made myself a deep pleat at the front. I tugged at the top of the side seam of the pants, pulling it higher into the elastic waistband until wrinkles through the legs disappeared. And I ended up deciding that I needed to remove some fabric from the centre back.

Is this the exact order of things I was supposed to do? I’m not sure, but it felt right.

I transferred where the pants were interacting with the waistband over onto my paper pattern and cut out the other side of the pants and then I used my shears to lop off the fabric I had deemed unnecessary at the top of my first side of the pants (leaving a seam allowance of 1/2″). Then I did a check with both legs attached to each other still with the elastic loop as a waistband, tweaking and pinching fabric.

Final changes

I ended up adding a 4″ pleat to the front and removing an amount from the centre back of the pattern. I effectively ended up removing 2″ from the rise all around the pattern pieces, with slightly more through the centre back as I was trying to remove some excess fabric pooling in the small of my back.

Cargo Glebe View A Waikerie-20

In truth, I haven’t exactly maintained the design intent of the Glebe Pants because I’ve seriously widened the legs of the pants and put a very deep pleat in which is twice as big as the original View B pleat.

I also could not be bothered to go back and add the slash pockets back in, so I attached this gusseted pocket which I had recently drafted for a wrap skirt (it’s now the November Patreon Bonus). The pocket hits at exactly the right spot for my hand and is surprisingly capacious.

High-rent pink Glebe

For my recent weekend trip to Wellington for Camp Boom (a camp for fatties) I took the opportunity to sew myself up a little travel capsule of new makes!

I love a deadline and also an excuse to kick myself into making things I’d been planning for ages, but hadn’t necessarily got around to!

M&B pants

At Muna and Broad we’re celebrating our 3rd birthday and we’ve shared 5 days of prompts for folks to share their M&B makes on Instagram! Up first, pants day!

What better time to delve through the archive for vintage pants (3 years old is vintage now).

Glebe Pants Green 3
Torrens Box Top 3
Black silk noil Torrens

Above, our first pants pattern, the Glebe Pants! The natural linen ones were my first pair (and the pants that started it all… literally started M&B), then the dark green on the left and the green on the right.

McElroy Lawn Torrens 2
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Nullarbor 6

If you squint at the photo on above with the very colourful top you can see the early Willandra Pants that I made and then we put on the back burner for months (I thought I didn’t like them, but my love grew over the months). After the Glebe we released our side-pocketed Sculthorpe Pants next!

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Shoalhaven Blog

Next, the Willandra made it out into the world. I made them in a plum tencel and it was love! Pink wool Glebe joined my wardrobe and we released the Birchgrove Pants (the red ones above)

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At some point, the bright pink pants that I made on a whim and which revolutionised my wardrobe and thoughts on colour need to be mentioned.. These pants changed everything.

Corduroy Glebe Tarlee
New Glebe-19
Glebe Pants September-037

And I keep filling my wardrobe with Glebe… It’s fair to say that they’re my favourite pants pattern (and so, by default they’re also my favourite M&B pants pattern)!

Bishop Melba Top

A little while ago I shared this Melba Dress sewing fail on Instagram– a sad outcome for this deep stash linen which I cut into far too haphazardly. With the bold sleeves and the red colour, it felt like something I should be wearing as a church chorister.

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I knew that removing the sleeves and making them less dramatic would probably fix the dress for me, but I really do prefer to wear pants so I decided that I’d just make a dramatic top instead since that will get the most wear.

Glebe Pants September-100

This was an early version of the Melba and the neckline isn’t quite the same as the final version, which has a much better fit on my narrow, hollow chest.

I don’t have much of this tomato red shade in my wardrobe, but I do love a pink and red pairing, so I’m hoping this top will work well with my various pink pants and also my natural linen Glebe Pants too!

Glebe Pants September-107

In fact, I like this combo so much that I used the photo as my headshot for the announcement that I’ll be one of the speakers (and attendees) at Camp Boom in Wellington this year! I’m very excited to attend ‘a fierce camp for fat babes’ in November, and am already planning a couple of extra pieces for my wardrobe (including some kind of me-made rain covering)!

Red and pink combo

Pinterest can attest to my love of pink and red combos, but my wardrobe couldn’t, until now. Inspired by this post from The Fine Cloth Company which showed their candy apple red and bubblegum pink linens combined into a tiered dress, I went ahead and purchased The Exact Same Fabrics for my own colourblock adventure using the M&B Torrens Box Top and Glebe Pants.

Glebe Pants September-037

I thought i might not like the combo for wearing as much as the thought of it made me chuckle (and also brought me pleasure) and I was kind of right. The combo feels rather conspicuous (d’uh Jess) and I’m left with the feeling that maybe I needed even more colourblocking to make this sit right with me (when in doubt, double down).

Fabric consumption: I purchased 1.5metres of each colour, and although I had enough, I ended up having to cut the red of the back as several pieces (through poor planning on my part). As you can see from the improv quilts in the background of the photo, I had lots of small pieces of fabric left.

The back of the pockets are self-linen (since they are visible past the slash pockets) but the front of the pockets are a viscose fabric (this saves fabric but adds some extra slink to my pockets).

Glebe Pants September-021

The red fabric is opaque but the pink was letting things shine through (I don’t mind a bra but I draw the line at underwear), so I did a half lining using the method from men’s suit trousers which is to cut your pattern pieces sideways so that the bottom hem sits on the selvedge. This means you can skip hemming your lining, which is extra comfortable and doesn’t let any bumps show through your pants. They’re lined in the same opaque pink fabric I lined the pockets with.

However, for some reason the pants and the lining looked really tight on, there were all these extra drag lines.. basically, it looked really bad. This was my standard size for the Glebe so I think the issue was how my lining pants and the linen pants were interacting (the lining pants were attached through the pocket but not the crotch seam). I experimented with unpicking the centre crotch along the leg seam and this unlocked a lot of the tension, so I added a gusset into both sets of pants. Much better!

Glebe Pants September-045

Speaking of doubling down when things aren’t working- When I’d decided that maybe this combo wasn’t working, I went back and ordered more of this fabric, with a plan to make an epic Waikerie Dress to wear as a duster with the outfit. Very much inspired by Garth Brook’s The Chase album cover, my duster would have pockets added onto the front to amp up the colourblock, and maybe I’d finally use that snap press that I bought so I could stop sewing buttonholes! Good things take time though, so I’ll continue procrastinating!

Pale Peach Waikerie

Back in July last year I made a couple of hacked Waikerie Shirts from Fine Cloth Company linen. I made a gathered mocha Waikerie and this breast pocketed peach Waikerie.

While the mocha Waikerie got a lot of wear, this peach shirt has been somewhat spurned.

Glebe Pants September-120

The mocha linen was a slightly heavier weight and is totally opaque, but I didn’t reach for this shirt because it pretty clearly displayed my bralettes and my favourite black bra. Recently I read that a red bra works as a flesh tone and can’t be seen through things, and I was pleased to find that works for me with this shirt!

Of course, I don’t like to wear a bra very often so I’ve now got a plan to make some red Banksia Bralettes!

Glebe Pants September-118

Pattern details: This is Size F of the Waikerie Shirt, with some breast pockets, a straightened-out the side seam and extra fabric in the pleat at the back of the shirt. I added length to the sleeves.

Fabric & notions details: This 180gsm linen is not opaque, and certainly wouldn’t last long as pants for me. I used Corozo buttons from Auckland-based Hawes & Freer to pair with the soft pink.

Silk noil and raw linen

Here’s a fun little combo which includes 2 pieces that I’ve already shared here on the blog- my most recent and what’s probably my earliest make in A+R Fabric!

Waikerie and Herringbone Glebes-088

My top is the Waikerie Shirt in moss silk noil and the pants are Glebe Pants in raw herringbone linen.

The contrast between these 2 garments is pretty hilarious. The pants might be some of my tidiest sewing ever and the shirt is pre-overlocker, pre-rotary cutter and was one of my first shirts! Because the insides have a zigzag finish (which just isn’t as good as an overlocker finish), I still have to snip the occasional loose thread off from various locations.. I’m also not sure that I nailed the button locations since they don’t reeeeaaalllllyyy meet perfectly with their buttonhole pals.

Waikerie and Herringbone Glebes-084

In the background my improv quilting explorations, and a not-so-improv patchworking exploration which is going to be part of a fun and very cosy project!

New Glebe Pants

After my two most-worn M&B Glebe Pants (both natural linen) died in quick succession my wardrobe has been screaming out for a new pair so at the August M&B Patreon Zoom Sewing Circle last weekend I finally finished up this pair in A+R Fabrics Herringbone linen.

The deaths were particularly sad because the pair I’d made to replace my most-loved and first ever pair died first because the fabric just did not hold up! A particular disappointment since I felt like I’d purchased pricey linen which should have been up to the job.

Waikerie and Herringbone Glebes-040

One thing that’s not a disappointment about those 2 pairs of pants dying is that I got to replace them with this delicious herringbone linen. It’s hefty, and it’s soft and I have high hopes of it withstanding my powerful thighs!

I can’t lie to you, dear reader. These pants sat in the naughty pile for quite some time before I finally finished them off. I don’t remember exactly why they were in the naughty pile but I unpicked 6 darts (6?!?) from the back and unpicked the darts on the front before starting again.

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Size: I printed and cut out a Size G for this pair, even though I’ve generally made a Size F. I’d hoped that the extra room I’d gained would give me a bit of ‘breathing’ space around my lower belly (but above where my hip is measured). I’ve got a relatively low and protruding bum and a full lower belly that is firm rather than soft and pliable. While they appreciated the space, my waist didn’t care for the extra fabric, which was exacerbated by the flat front (means the fabric at the back is doing all the gathering work and you end up with much more fabric gathering in the small of your back).

Adjustments: In the end, I moved the front pleats and deepened them and I removed some width through the centre back seam, and lowered where the waistband sat on the back rise of the pants. This removed some extra fabric through the back and took care of the ‘pouf’ of fabric which would be perfect for accommodating a shelf-but if I had one.

Waikerie and Herringbone Glebes-004

The natural linen Glebe Pants have become such a wardrobe workhorse and a comfort item for me. It’s something I know that I can reach for even when I’m at my most frazzled and nothing looks or feels right! They feel put-together but can also look casual- I appreciate that they never make me feel under, or over, dressed.

Colourblock Torrens

Pink and red should always be seen together, or whatever the opposite is to the saying about how you should never pair red and pink.

I used a pink and red linen from The Fine Cloth Company for this colour-blocked Torrens Box Top and Glebe Pants combo. I haven’t hemmed the top or pants yet because I had second thoughts about the combo because it’s just such a huge-scale colourblock on me.

I’ve been experimenting with large statement pocket on the top to see if this fixes the combo. I’m not set on this shape pocket, but I do think bigger will be better here.

color-block-torrens

Because the pink wasn’t especially opaque I lined the pants in a deliciously slinky rayon. That’s partly why I’m so desperate to get this pocket right so that I end up with an ensemble that I love- the pants are Just So Dang Comfie!

In the background of my pics you can see my first day of improv quilting for the 30 days of improv quilting in August. One of the pink shades is leftovers from this matching set! I’m looking forward to exploring more during the month of August (and also to using up a lot of scraps in a really pleasing way)!

Glebe and Gusset

I love a quick sew and I especially love a quick sew that I’ve memorised- the Glebe Pants were the first pattern that Leila and I released together and I’ve got the making down to a fine art where I can absolutely watch tv while I go through the pants-making motion.

New Glebe-17

I cut these out as part of a batch-cutting whirlwind (which included 3 Torrens Box Tops and another pair of Glebe) and I whipped them up on Sunday afternoon. This is a 7oz Linen Cotton Slub in Dusty Teal from Blackbird Fabrics (or it’s a Viscose Linen Noil in Ocean Mist) and I hunted down my leftovers from cutting out to cut out a Spinifex PJs gusset which I added into the centre crotch seam.

New Glebe-19

I did forget to take into account how much extra length that ends up giving in other spots, so I might end up shortening the rise on these (my first time shortening the rise on anything I think)!