Silk noil and raw linen

Here’s a fun little combo which includes 2 pieces that I’ve already shared here on the blog- my most recent and what’s probably my earliest make in A+R Fabric!

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My top is the Waikerie Shirt in moss silk noil and the pants are Glebe Pants in raw herringbone linen.

The contrast between these 2 garments is pretty hilarious. The pants might be some of my tidiest sewing ever and the shirt is pre-overlocker, pre-rotary cutter and was one of my first shirts! Because the insides have a zigzag finish (which just isn’t as good as an overlocker finish), I still have to snip the occasional loose thread off from various locations.. I’m also not sure that I nailed the button locations since they don’t reeeeaaalllllyyy meet perfectly with their buttonhole pals.

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In the background my improv quilting explorations, and a not-so-improv patchworking exploration which is going to be part of a fun and very cosy project!

Snow gum blue Waikerie

When Maaidesign got in touch to ask if I wanted to try some of their new exclusive fabrics, some of which had Australian gum leaf prints, I was in. You might have noticed that I have a collection of Australian botanicals on my arms, so I was particularly taken with the long gum leaf print and the snow gum print, which is what I’ve used here for a Muna and Broad Waikerie Shirt (the long gum is cut out and will become a Huon Dress).

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I printed out a brand new copy of the Waikerie Shirt for this project, as I’d decided to size up and make a Size G, instead of the Size E I’d previously made. Size E matches my bust measurement, and the side-split on the shirt do open up to accommodate my belly, but I decided that this time I’d choose a size based on my largest belly measurement, so that I wasn’t relying on ease for the shirt to fit.

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Measurements: My current measurements are 48″ bust, 54″ hip, 54″ waist and my largest belly measurement is 58″. This is measuring at my hip bones and where my waist is (not where my smallest measurement is (which is really just my underbust)). You can see Leila’s ‘how to measure’ here on Insta.

Fabric: I had 2.3metres of this 150m wide fabric, and although I really wanted to skip pre-washing, I didn’t (although I’m very lazy, I’m generally not lazy about pre-washing). I popped a new sharp needle on for the project because with printed fabrics they sometimes get a bit moody and let the white show through the stitch holes if they don’t like your needle. That didn’t happen here.

The fabric is nice to sew with, and even though it had a crisp poplin feel, it didn’t object too much to me pulling it about to ease bits in, which I always appreciate. Of course, I didn’t try to pattern match anything as life is short, but also the repeat on the print is pretty big.

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Unexpected thought: So the Waikerie Shirt was launched on the 17th of June 2020, and when it came out it was the first proper shirt that I’d sewn. Since then, I’ve bought a cutting mat, several rotary cutters, an overlocker and a backup overlocker. Basically, I have totally upgraded my sewing equipment since I made my first shirt, I’m cutting with way more accuracy…turns out a cutting mat and rotary cutter will beat haphazardly cutting on the floor (my cutting used to be a sweat-inducing activity which was much closer to the game of Twister than to my current cutting set up). I’m sewing more accurately too (which is also easier when your cutting is all correct. Anyway, as this shirt was coming together, using my seam gauge to measure and press my hems and just generally sewing the various bits together I thought ‘this is a nice tidy shirt’.

 

 
 
 
 
 
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A post shared by Jess, Broad In The Seams (@fat.bobbin.girl)

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Voluminous Mocha Waikerie

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I’ve been on a bit of a Waikerie Shirt making kick recently (actually, I’ve been pretty prolific in general since I made my 2 Medlow Robes (silk and waffle), my new 3-piece outfit (see here and here), a pink Waikerie Shirt and this voluminous mocha Waikerie Shirt (I used the View B, with no collar but then hacked from there).

The Fine Cloth Company sent me some of their Pale Peach linen (which I used to make this Waikerie Shirt) and also this Mocha linen, which I decided needed gathers and then I added THE MOST gathers ever.

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My measurements: My current measurements are a 53″ low hip and I’m 54″ at my roundest point (around my belly). My full bust is 48″ and my upper bust is 43″. I am relatively short through the body, and have narrow shoulders compared to my other measurements.

Pattern details: This is Size F of the Waikerie Shirt, with some modifications! I gathered in the entire width of the fabric below the back yoke and did the same to the fabric at the front (I added a front yoke). I added a chunk of length to the sleeves (maybe an inch.. ), because my previous Waikerie Shirts were a little short in the sleeve. Turns out that wasn’t necessary because Leila lengthened the sleeve before we launched.

Fabric & notions details: This 180gsm linen was nice to sew with. Where the peach version is a little sheer, this mocha doesn’t let you know what I’m wearing underneath. I had a hard time choosing buttons because of the washed colouring. In the end I found some at my local Lincraft (which was very expensive and I do not recommend it). I think I got 2.5 metres of this linen (I didn’t measure before cutting), so I’m pretty amazed that I got long sleeves and So Much Volume from that amount of fabric!

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The Waikerie Shirt will be going through some changes soon, as will the Waikerie Dress Expansion. What’s 2 patterns will become 3, with an extra collar and hem option. If you have both patterns before we make the change, we’ll send out the new view and collar once the pattern is ready to go. After that, to get all the views you’ll need to buy 3 separate patterns (but we’re phasing out this collarless view). Anyway, that’s my hot tip- if you’re thinking about it, do it before we change it.

Pale Peach Waikerie Hack

Did you know that I keep track of the online shops that sell fabric in NZ? I’m often looking for specific kinds of fabric, so often stumble upon new shops and add them to my list! In the case of The Fine Cloth Company, I found their website before it was live and signed up for the email newsletter so that I could add it to the website as soon as they were ready for me!

Wellington-based (well, Upper Hutt to be exact), The Fine Cloth Company stocks lots of delicious looking natural fibres in lots of great colours! So, when they asked if I’d like to check out some of their fabrics, I asked for some samples of their lovely linen- ‘warm colours with pinks and browns’ was my brief.. I ended up getting this Pale Peach linen and also a Mocha linen (another post coming with that make)!

Fine Cloth Company Shirt-10

The Waikerie Shirt was the obvious choice for pairing with this lovely linen- oversized linen shirts was why I started sewing! So, I made myself a hacked Waikerie, where I added two in-built breast pockets (think Elbe Textiles’ Sanders Shirt and Paper Theory’s Olya Shirt). I went with the long-sleeve version because it’s winter and I like to roll my sleeves, and I used the collarless option because then I got to skip making a collar!

My measurements: My current measurements are a 53″ low hip and I’m 54″ at my roundest point (around my belly). My full bust is 48″ and my upper bust is 43″. I am relatively short through the body, and have narrow shoulders compared to my other measurements.

Pattern details: This is Size F of the Waikerie Shirt, with some mods- built-in breast pockets, and I straightened out the side-seams and added an extra fabric to the pleat at the back of the shirt. I added a chunk of length to the sleeves (maybe an inch.. honestly, I eye-balled it), but usually I make a Size E in the Waikerie, and the Size F sleeves probably would have been long enough without modifications.

Fine Cloth Company Shirt-16

Fabric & notions details: This 180gsm linen is a little sheer, and certainly wouldn’t last long as pants for my powerful thighs, it was nice to sew with and pressed well. I used Corozo buttons from Auckland-based Hawes & Freer to pair with the soft pink. The breast pockets I added were convenient but tactical, as you would have otherwise been able to see much of the colour of my bra or bralette through the slightly sheer fabric.

For the hack: I cut a yoke across the front of the top (basically recreating the Belmore Jacket pockets but much higher), and added a 1/2″ seam allowance to each side. Then I approximated where I wanted the pockets to start and finish (horizontally) and added that on to both the top and the bottom of the shirt fronts (plus seam allowance). Next time, I’ll move the pockets closer to my arms, keeping them the same size but giving me a bit more room to overlap the centre fronts.

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The outcome? I’m on a pink kick recently, so this is obviously leaving me tickled pink. I like the pockets, and the relaxed vibe (which stops this from feeling too feminine for me). Apart from moving the pockets on the next version (and taking out the extra length I’d added to the sleeves), I can definitely see this popping up in my wardrobe again! You can see what I’ve got underneath the top, because of its light colour and the slightly sheer fabric. The triple-layer of fabric at the bust helps to disguise my under-clothes somewhat, but it’s worth taking into consideration!

Waikerie and Willandra plums

This Willandra Pants and Waikerie Shirt combos is one of my favourite (and most worn) outfit combinations.
Muna and Broad is celebrating a Willandra Pants this week as it seemed like a perfect time to revisit this pattern, which we unfortunately released right in the middle of lockdown- just at the time where nobody was thinking about sewing slightly elevated pants which are a little bit elevated and perfect for workwear.

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Liberty print Waikerie Shirt

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I bought this liberty print cotton on a bit of a whim shopping in person at The Fabric Store here in Christchurch. It was pretty unusual for a liberty print, and a bit more large-scale/abstract than usual.

I bought this fabric intending to turn it in to a Waikerie Shirt (from Muna and Broad). This is View B of the Waikerie, and although I don’t look terrible pleased in these pictures, I actually like the shirt a lot.

Chartreuse linen Waikerie Dress

Waikerie Dress

This is my most recent make- a Waikerie Dress (in chartreuse linen from The Fabric Store) from the Waikerie Dress expansion pack which gives you the pieces to turn the Muna and Broad Waikerie Shirt into a shirt dress!

Silk Noil Waikerie Shirt

Silk Noil Waikerie

The latest pattern from Muna and Broad is the Waikerie Shirt pattern, and this here is the collarless variation (View C) with short sleeves.

I’ve avoided buttonholes for pretty much the whole time I’ve been sewing (all my pants have elastic), even though I love shirts, and finding shirts that fit both my bust and my hips was one of my biggest issues when shopping RTW!

Waikerie Shirt Test

I gave the automatic button hole on my very basic Brother sewing machine just one more go, and finally managed to end up with something consistent enough to risk trying on actual clothes! I finally put buttons on 3 shirts that were otherwise fully made, that were part of my testing for a forthcoming Muna and Broad pattern, the Waikerie Shirt.

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