Glebe Pants roundup!

The Glebe Pants got a size update this week, so I thought it would be appropriate to sift back through all my past Glebe Pants to see both how many I’ve made, but also what were the big successes (and failures)!

The first Glebe!

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Glebe Pants Green 2

The Glebe Pants (and eventually Muna and Broad) came to be because Leila got in touch via Instagram DM to let me know that she had a pants pattern which she wanted to release as a free pattern, but didn’t want to set up a blog. I had a blog and I loved free pants patterns, so we teamed up to release a free pattern via email together (and the rest, is quite recent history)!

The natural linen Glebe Pants were my first version. I cut into a linen remnant I’d been saving without toiling, and I finished a lot of the internal seams with bias tape (including the hem, which I hand-stitched up). My second pair of Glebe Pants came from a 5+ metre viscose/mystery remnant which cost me $15 locally. I loved how drapey they were and I wore them to work A Lot. The natural linen Glebe Pants are still going strong, and I recently sold the green pair as I decided that they weren’t a colour that I loved.

Middle period Glebe

Then I entered a period of Glebe Pants that didn’t necessarily work out, so you won’t see them online much (you can see them below though). After that I entered my middle period of Glebe Pants. What I’m going to term my own pants pinnacle.

Stripes
Corduroy Glebe Tarlee
Wool Glebe Pants-04
Huon Shirt

You can see the bright pink Glebe Pants which I made on a whim, but which have become a staple of my wardrobe. They’ve also lead the way for more pink in my wardrobe, in general, but also specifically more pink Glebe Pants (so they were pretty transformative).

You can also see the natural linen Glebe that I made to replace my first pair (hilariously, these ones are looking rattier than the OG pair, thanks to the weave of the linen on the original pair). I also made a pair of pink corduroy Glebe Pants (an homage to Sue) which were my go-to winter pants! The dusky pink/brown wool pants lead me to make a Glebe petti-pant (which you can see here).

Glebe Pants you won’t see

Black silk noil Torrens 2
Paper Theory LB Pullover 2
Side Batik Jammies

Seated Mum Jammies

This check flannel fabric feels like a mouth full of velvet when you have styrofoam teeth.

These Glebe Pants fell into obscurity because they were colours I didn’t love, or pocketless PJs (not for me, it turns out)! Or fabric which felt awful to touch and couldn’t be worn.

The blue and green day-time Glebe Pants above were made in a viscose or tencel blends, and it was at a time when I couldn’t mix the texture of linen and viscose (and especially not viscose on the bottom) without feeling quite conspicuous. Now, I’d manage better, but I still don’t think I’d choose those colours for my wardrobe.

The ultimate pink pants

Crepe Satin Pants-12

My most-recent pair of Glebe Pants has been this bright pink satin-backed crepe. Its brightness knows no bounds. My camera doesn’t want to deal with it, it’s so bright. These are my fancy going out Glebe Pants, and since the satin is on the inside, they’re like secret delicious silky PJs that are likely to make you fall off chairs if your underwear isn’t made of toweling or something grippy.

Total Glebe Pants

I think that puts me at 11 pairs of Glebe Pants in total, which is a pretty solid usage number for a pattern, even though a few of them weren’t winners (but maybe would be now that I can wear different textured fabric together😂😂)! The #GlebePants hashtag abounds with inspiration (aka, pants I want to blatantly copy), so there’ll definitely be more in the future!

Day time PJs?

These are my original Spinifex PJs, and I’ve really been enjoying them as night-time wear. Since releasing the pattern, I’ve also made a second sleepwear set with the bottoms from this pattern and a Tarlee T-Shirt turtleneck (because it’s cold in the house in NZ in winter)!

If you want to read more about this project, click here!

Spinifex PJs-07

I took advantage of an extra-quiet neighbourhood to take some outside pictures of these PJs, and it wasn’t until I was sorting through the pics on my computer that it occurred to me that, actually, these look like they’d make good day-wear!

The PJ bottoms in the Spinifex PJs have a gusset in the middle of the legs which adds comfort and increases your range of movement (but the bum fit ends up looking pretty good on me too). The top comes with cup-size options, but no dart and there’s an ever so-slightly dropped shoulder. Describing it for you, I realise ‘that’s my perfect shirt’!

Spinifex PJs-15

I haven’t decided yet if I’d make a matching top and bottom for day-time wear, and I have been thinking about how to remove the PJs vibe. I think I’d omit the piping, and increase the size of the pocket (and maybe add a second one?). I’d definitely remove the cuffs, and I’m wondering if I’d change the sleeves (to add a placket, or shorten them) too.

Spinifex PJs-20

In the meantime, I’ve started a Pinterest board, and started my Instagram research: @styleisstyle has an amazing blue shirt, @littlerivermama has a relaxed natural shirt, this lavender shirt with big pockets, @styleisstyle in this relaxed matching set, and this pocket inspiration too.

Now just to choose a fabric and decide if I’m making a full Spinifex day-time PJs, or just the shirt!

Tencel Pants

I’ve been casually making and modifying a pants pattern (which is made from a mash-up of several patterns) for the last wee-while, sewing up a toile and then taking terrible mirror selfies of the fit before trying to think through how I could address the various bits I notice.

I’d been stewing on adding some width through the knees/calves on the pattern, and changing the shape of the front crotch curve to better accommodate my belly. Then yesterday I decided, in an unusual fit of inspiration/decisiveness, to add width through the front and back leg to make some wide-leg pants with a 2″ pleat at the front from the pattern. So added width at the front and the back and hoped for the best.

Basically they’re the Frankenstein’s monster of pants.

Tencel pleated pants-15

I’d forgotten about this tencel in my stash, but I’ve rediscovered it and made it into pants in less than a week! It was all very fortuitous since I’d been thinking about some blue pants (and indeed, I’ve been on the hunt for blue tencel and have ordered some from Blackbird Fabric that’s a slightly different shade to this navy, which almost reads as black).

Pattern details: There’s a 2″ pleat on the front and in the back there’s 4 cute wee darts. There are elastic-waist pants, so the darts can’t be miracle workers, but they did remove some of the pooling I was getting in the centre back. Even with the pleats and the darts, there’s still plenty of room to get the pants over my largest measurement. The pockets are ‘Glebe Pants style’, but on future versions, I’ll deepen the pocket opening so that there’s more room for my arm in there.

I had thought that these pants were much wider than the Glebe Pants, but actually the legs are almost exactly the same width!

Tencel pleated pants-10

I’ve been thinking a lot about thinking. Or over-thinking. Perhaps I’ve been over-thinking about over-thinking. For the purposes of the blog, I’m going to tell you about the over-thinking I’ve been doing about fitting and how I’d let it kill my pants-making drive.

Working on various toiles of the ‘cobbled together’ pants pattern, assessing fit and then making changes to the pattern.. Well, it felt a lot like work and not at all like the fun and carefree sewing that I like to do.

Sometimes it’s handy to remind myself that there are plenty of fitting things that I have ignored and continue to ignore/deal with in RTW clothing. So, why can’t I give the same grace to my handmade clothes? Because every pair of pants that I’ve made has definitely been an improvement on RTW pants, but lately that hasn’t felt like enough.

It’s so easy to let your sewing hobby snowball into a fitting fest, or to feel like you should be really interested in and concerned about fitting. I’ve certainly felt a bit bummed that I don’t know more, not for my own interest, but more just to combat imposter syndrome.

Tencel pleated pants-11

So my generally latent impetuous side snapped me out of my funk yesterday, and told me to ‘cut into the tencel without a toile’. Wise impetuous me knew that even if these weren’t the perfect pants, I’d still get something that I’d get a lot of wear from anyway! And although there’s plenty of unanswered questions and thoughts for the next version, I’ve got the blue pants I wanted!

Tarawi in the wild!

The new Tarawi Shirt has happily joined my wardrobe! This is the 23rd pattern that Leila and I have released over the last two years and at the time of posting, there’s about 48-hours left to get 15% off (no discount code needed).

Here’s a little bit of wardrobe and colour-scheme exploration about fitting these new Tarawi Shirts into my wardrobe!

Tarawi Shoalhaven Glebe
Belmore and Tarawi

Above left, I’m wearing my navy Shoalhaven Shacket with a brushed cotton twill Tarawi Shirt, natural linen Glebe Pants and my McLean & Co scarf. Above right, I’m wearing my pink boiled wool Belmore Jacket, purple cow print Tarawi, and hot pink Glebe Pants.

I’ve posted before about my explorations trying to narrow down a colour scheme for my wardrobe, or ‘trying to make sure every project is a winner’. With still no solid answers (but ever more questions), these 2 shirts raised a lot of questions for me.

The two Tarawi Shirts that I’ve shared here were fabrics I had decided wouldn’t necessarily be for me, or not for me to wear out in public! The purple ‘cow spot’ fabric I had put aside to sell at a stash sale (but nobody bought it from me) and I got the blue plaid thinking I might make a shirt for someone else, or pyjamas for myself… Basically, these were toiles that I think have redeemed themselves (and given me food for thought) because I wasn’t sure they’d be winners colour-wise for me!

Brighton cow print-24
Above, I’m wearing my purple cow print Tarawi with my quilted Belmore Jacket, corduroy Glebe Pants, my Breve Bag, and McLean & Co scarf

Because I love all fabrics and really bright colours (would you believe that I’m a bit obsessed with bright Kaffe Fassett prints?), it can be difficult for me to narrow down things that I’m quite drawn to, but don’t necessarily want to wear. The purple ‘cow print’ fabric arrived in the post, and I thought ‘why did you buy that?’. I was pretty certain that I’d fallen prey to that classic ‘love it but don’t want to wear it’ situation.

The pale lilac shade and the print both felt very ‘young’. Like something a Gen X would wear with mint mules. Fine for them, but not something for me necessarily.

Something obviously made me hold on to the fabric, and I’m quite taken by the final product! I like how there’s a pattern, but it’s still quite low-contrast, and how the purple shade will work with many of the other colours in my wardrobe.

Tarawi and Shoalhaven
A navy Shoalhaven Shacket with a Tarawi Shirt, Glebe Pants and McLean & Co scarf.

Navy has been a colour that I’ve been avoiding lately. Not because I don’t like it, and not because it doesn’t suit me, but because I found that it was bringing a lot of contrast to my outfits- contrast that I didn’t feel good in (read more musings from me on low-contrast combos). This discovery came after I finished this Shoalhaven (a project I was really pleased with), and then found I really wasn’t reaching for because it was too high-contrast and wasn’t bringing me joy.

The cozy navy brushed cotton twill I used for this Tarawi was fabric that I’d decided to use as a toile- I didn’t expect to finish it into a wearable garment. The fabric was so snuggly and nice, that I did end up finishing it and it ended up being a great match for the Shoalhaven. Together, they make a pairing that I’m comfortable in.

I’ve paired the shirt and shacket combo with these rust Woden shoes that I was having a hard time pairing until @naomi.joy.creates pointed out that if I had leather shoes this shade I’d consider them a neutral. I imagine with some kind of denim pants, this would be the ultimate combo to make navy feel not-so-high-contrast!

Tarawi and Belmore
Belmore Jacket, Tarawi Shirt, and Glebe Pants.

So both of these shirts were from fabric which I had decided ‘probably weren’t for me’. I thought they’d struggle to fit into my current wardrobe, and that I wouldn’t necessarily get much joy from wearing them, or a lot of use from them. I’ve been absolutely proven wrong, and the colours have raised quite a few questions (like, do I need some warm blue linen pants?)!

A+R Linen Tarawi

I’ve been on a Tarawi Shirt-making tear over the last wee while, which I suppose is to be expected when you’re preparing a shirt pattern for release into the world!

My latest version uses the 3″/8cm check linen from A+R Fabrics in Australia. I was planning a colour-blocked version because I didn’t think I had enough fabric for a full shirt, but as I was cutting I discovered that I could squeeze the full shirt out, so long as I wasn’t too fussy about pattern placement.

A and R Tarawi Shirt-47
I’m wearing a Tarawi Shirt over a Tarlee T-Shirt and Glebe Pants (the mask is the free Japanese Sewing Book 3D Mask)

This hot-off-the-machine Muna and Broad Tarawi Shirt uses the narrow-neck option which we added in for folks with proportionally small necks. My two other shirts that I’ve shared (see the purple one and the other blue one) both use the regular neckline.

With the addition of the narrow neck option, the Tarawi Shirt gives regular and narrow biceps, 4 cup-sizes and regular and narrow width necks. The hope is that this will give folks a great starting point! The size chart spans 36″-66″ (91-168cm) Bust and 41.5″-71.5″ (105-182cm) Hip, and Leila will grade the pattern up (at no extra size) if the size chart is too small to include you.

A and R Tarawi Shirt-51

My measurements: Upper bust 43″, full bust 48″, largest measurement 56/57″, lower hip 55″. I have quite narrow shoulders, and the 5″ difference in measurements between my upper and full bust is quite misleading because that’s not my actual cup size.

Size details: I made a Size D, based on my upper bust measurements, and used the 2+ front and the narrow neck. I graded out to a little past the Size E hip to accommodate for my largest measurement and I also added 1″ to the centre of the lower-back (the piece is cut on the fold so this gave me 2″ extra through the back).

A and R Tarawi Shirt-37

Future versions: Inspired by the lengthened versions that you can see in the hashtag #TarawiShirt, I’m thinking about a cosy mid-thigh length version from a warm fabric.